Fjordside Cabin

Tröllaskagi, Iceland.
Photo by Agata Melnyk

Moved into my snug wooden cabin on the edge of the icy fjord on the mystical Troll Peninsula in the remote north of Iceland. It's my annual pilgrimage here, avoiding tourists descending on the country in the long summer months. My husband and I prefer to retreat to a remote location in the north of Iceland, where we can embrace the autumnal weather and avoid the crowds.

The fall colours on the Troll Peninsula are a feast for the senses. The blueberry plants have turned a fiery red, covering the hill slopes in a rust-coloured blanket.

First walk is always the same. Up the hill alongside the waterfall, over sheep fences and through mud and tall grass. There are no trails or paths, so it's a bit of a scramble to the top. But I love it.

Tröllaskagi, Iceland.
Photo by Agata Melnyk

Tröllaskagi, Iceland.
Photo by Agata Melnyk

Iceland
Photo by Agata Melnyk

I love the feeling of my wellies sinking into the wet moss. It's like walking on a giant sponge. I hold on to the rocks to push myself up, face close to the ground I pause, tired mid-climb, inhale the smell of damp earth and listen to the sound of the waterfall next to me.

Eyjafjörður, Iceland.
Photo by Agata Melnyk

On the top, as a celebration, my husband poured us hot coffee from the thermos flask. It's a tradition now, to sit on this big rock next to the waterfall. We always climb here to this rock as our first hike after arriving in Iceland. It's a special place for us, and we love to come back here every year.

I sat back and enjoyed my coffee, taking in the view as fjord stretches out below me, and the majestic mountains rise in the distance, their peaks dusted with the first snow of autumn. It's good to be back. Back to the peace and quiet. Back to nature. Back to the sheep.

And back to the muck.

Eyjafjörður, Iceland.
Photo by Agata Melnyk


MY BOTANICAL NOTES

Bilberry

Vaccinium myrtillus


These berries are a type of bilberry , bláber in Icelandic. They are closely related to blueberries, cranberries, and lingonberries.

The bilberry bushes are small and delicate, with oval-shaped leaves and serrated edges. The berries grow in clusters on the branches, and they turn a deep red color in the autumn.

Some Icelanders believe that if you eat too many blueberries, you will be captured by the Trolls and taken to live with them in their hidden world. This belief is thought to have originated as a way to discourage children from eating too many berries, as they can be poisonous if eaten in large quantities.

Despite the folklore surrounding them, blueberries are a popular and beloved food in Iceland. They are a delicious and nutritious way to enjoy the taste of nature.


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Trolls of the peninsula